Create water-tight network

3D modelling for games, movies, and animation differs from the 3D modelling for printing. This alteration consists in the fact that the mesh for 3D printing must be water-tight i.e. free of any holes, with closed edges, making up a solid volume.

Entering Wall-thickness Worth

The mesh must be completely hard without holes or any other unmotivated spaces. If however the mesh has a hole or a motivated space, the polygon surface must have a certain thickness. The thickness value is entered by the user.

Closing object’s interior free gaps

If the mesh consists of holes then it is suggested to close the free gaps from the interior of the object.

Combining many essential elements

Several primitive elements must be joint in such a way as to avoid the formation of free space between them. If there are several objects, 4 spheres and 4 cylinders with no connecting points between them, i.e. they don’t make up a single object, even though situated close one to another, the printer will print them separately, as 4 separate spheres and 4 separate cylinders.

Design your own models right away. Using 3D design software is a little tricky at first for the beginner, but you will need to be able to design your models from scratch to realise the potential of your printer. Making other peoples models is fun but soon enough you’ll want to tweak this, change that, or just start over from scratch with a better idea.

Setup the printer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. It may seem straight forward but there are often warning bands or brackets that need to be removed. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for software and settings for the first print.

Level and Calibrate the printer. It may be tempting to skip ahead and start a print but that can result in a scratched bed surface and blocked nozzle.